On a mornings tasting we met some of the best, and friendliest, winegrowers on the Cte de Nuits. After a visit to Vosne-Romane we motored down the road to Nuits-Saint-Georges to met Fabienne Bony. Through the luxury Land Rovers open windows our guide David pointed out the Romane-Conti, La Tche and Richebourg vineyards. Scenes from an oenological fairy tale, the two Australian couples with us gazed as David showed us how a strip of premier cru vines, Vosne Romane Premier Cru Les Suchots and Beaumont, are surrounded to the left and right by grand crus. There are seven grands crus here, arguably the greatest of the Cte dOr: Romane-Conti, La Tche, La Romane, Romane-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg in Vosne-Romane cover 64.7 acres; Grands-Echzeaux and Echzeaux are in Flagey-Echzeaux and total 115.8 acres. Grand crus account for a tiny 2% of all wine produced in Burgundy.
The diminutive Fabienne stood beaming at us beside her enormous tractor as we drove into the yard. Gallant lawyer and banking men in our group reported after that they felt like leaping out to come to her aid. The huge high-clearance vineyard tractor towered over her like a praying mantis. But Fabienne Bony cannot...