It’s a sultry June day on the summit of Wyanokie High Point, 920 feet high in the northeast corner of the New Jersey Highlands. People in the towns below swelter, and to the east the New York City skyline steams in the humid air, but up here a steady breeze drifts in from the higher mountains to the west. Hikers come up here in all seasons, under different skies; sometimes the air swirls, bursts in gusts, or tries to carry you away, but always it moves, like the tides of an invisible sea.
Those tides run back into all kinds of histories, whose consequences are part of the scenery. To the northeast on the ridge of Ramapo Mountain you can see recent housing developments, lines of townhouses along Skyline Drive. The great Wanaque Reservoir below to the east, completed in 1930, covered 70 homesteads, farms and commercial buildings of the Wanaque River valley to supply the growing cities of North Jersey with essential water. Streaks of rusty color in the rocks of High Point summit show the iron content of Highlands gneiss, which in rich veins was a source of iron ore for the rebellious colonies and the thriving nineteenth century iron industry of New Jersey. The smooth...