Driving up to Seagram’s Four Roses distillery makes you feel strangely like Warren Gates at the start of Bring Me the Head of Alfredo Garcia. This bizarre lemon-coloured confection of a Mexican-style ranch seems incongruous with Kentucky’s gentle rolling grasslands and tree-lined hollows. Thankfully, master distiller Jim Rutlege is more hospitable than the patriarch in Sam Peckinpah’s violent film classic.
This is the last remaining Kentucky outpost of the mighty Seagram empire: in fact, until the firm’s Lawrenceburg plant in Indiana reopened it was the only Seagram distillery in the United States – stark evidence of the decline that beset the American whiskey market from the 1970s. That hasn’t stopped Jim making a pretty classy whiskey at Four Roses, with ‘pretty’ being the operative word.
It’s a given that every distiller has his or her own technique, but Four Roses stands apart from its colleagues in Kentucky. Perhaps it is Seagram’s Canadian roots showing through, but no other distillery in the state makes such a range of different base whiskies.
With five yeast strains being used on the two...