A holiday in Tuscany is everyones dream, but if you want to experience the charm of rural Italy, without the crowds, head for Lunigiana, in the northwest. Often referred to as the hidden Tuscany, of course it has in no way been hidden from the locals or discerning travellers. And it would be fair to say that away from the surrounds of Florence and Siena, the people are more welcoming and less jaded by visitors. Bordered by high mountains and the sea, the hills and valleys are perfect for hiking, with cascading waterfalls and streams, chestnut and European oak, and mountain crags topped with ruined fortresses.
The region is dominated by the impressive, rounded Appennine Mountains, as well as the distinctively jagged Apuan Alps that rise near the Tyrrheanian Sea and run almost parallel with the coastline, from the Appennines to the countryside around Lucca. Various kinds and qualities of marble are found in the Alps, and at the Parco Naturale delle Apuane you can see the remains of ancient marble quarries.
Medieval villages are tucked into hillsides, and over 100 castles remain as a reminder of the wealth and power that is part of the history of the region. The port...