Although gastronomy has always been deeply rooted in Limeos’ idiosyncrasy, the last few years have seen a huge leap in Lima’s dining scene. Not only Peru’s capital has become tapped with restaurants, both stylish and unpretentious, but many of them seem to be at full capacity all week long.
One possible explanation for the boom, besides obvious food quality, is international recognition. The Economist magazine, for example, reported in 2004 that Peru could “lay claim to one of the world’s dozen or so great cuisines”. Norman Van Aken, one of Florida’s most gifted chefs, acknowledged that Peruvian cuisine was possibly the most enticing of those he had studied. And Patrick Martin, academic director of Le Cordon Blue, said that one of the reasons for having a branch of the school in Lima was the excellent quality of local cuisine.
“Better late than never”, believe most Limeos, increasingly proud of the exceptionality of their gastronomic heritage. However, notwithstanding general contentment, they are still demanding and hard-to-please, and expect the best from their favourite restaurants and chefs. This, too,...