Loutro lies on the south coast of Chania Prefecture in west Crete, between Chora Sfakion and Agia Roumeli, the exit to the Samaria Gorge. The whole area is known as Sfakia and the inhabitants, the Sfakians, are fierce, proud mountain dwellers. They have taken part in every struggle against the foreign invaders of Crete, whether Venetian, Turkish or German.
Loutro is a small place but it too has a rich history. This is the site of the ancient city of Phoenix, an important harbour in Hellenistic and Roman times. Today nothing remains of ancient Phoenix except the name preserved by the small village in the bay west of Loutro.
Later the Sfakian pirates used Loutro as a lair from which to attack the ships sailing south of Crete. The Venetians managed to drive out the Saracens and fortified Loutro with a small fortress whose ruins are still visible today. Another fortress preserved in better condition in Loutro is evidence of the Turkish presence here.
The only way to get to Loutro is by ferry from Chora Sfakion. There is no road there, which is part of its unique charm. The boat leaves the harbour at Chora Sfakion, travels past the steep coastline with its...